Allergens, such as pollen and molds peak in the warm weather months, allergies shouldn’t keep you away from the pleasures of allergy-free gardening. Knowing what type of plants and trees are most likely to trigger allergies and planning gardening time strategically can help reduce sneezing and wheezing caused by seasonal allergies.

Some people may be irritated by flowers that release a strong scent, but that type of reaction is not related to pollen or seasonal allergies and is caused by a reaction to the oils the blossom contains.

Not withholding details like taste preferences sentimental values, I would like to give you some pointers when selecting plants for your garden. But the biggest thing you can do to help yourself enjoy the garden is to plant wisely.

The first pointer I would suggest is to cut down on the size of your lawn. It is your biggest enemy when it comes to pollen. Consider using other options such as groundcovers, hard surfacing, or large islands of mulch and pathways that reduce the amount of turf.

My second pointer is to switch to native plants where possible. They are low maintenance plants that are used to the hard conditions of Australian weather.

If you are a really sucker for colours and flowers, choose plants with big, showy flowers; the bigger the flower, the bigger the pollen. Big pollen doesn’t passes through our nasal passages as easily as fine pollen does. Good choices include many beloved spring bulbs.

My fourth pointer is to avoid plants with homely little flowers in brown and green. In the garden, homely plain flowers are bad news. These are wind-pollinated and are the main cause of your misery. If you’ve ever gone too long without mowing the lawn you’ll see what I mean. Grass has a flower. It looks like threads and dots in brownish green, well that’s plain misery. Keep that lawn mowed if you must keep it at all. And watch for weeds that have similar blooming types.

Enough with the negatives, below is a list of plants that are good for Asthmatics, these are usually insect-pollinated, or sterile and usually propagated by cuttings or grafting:

HERBS- Basil, Chives, Dill, Fennel, Horseradish, Marjoram, Mint, Oregano, Parsley, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme. AVOID Chamomile and Wormwood

GROUND COVERS-Canterbury Bells, Juniper, Kidney Weed, Native Violet, Pratia, Rosemary, Rose Baeckia, Snow in Summer, Tea tree, Thyme

GRASSES- Buffalo Grass, Greenless Couch Grass, Kangaroo Grass, Rice or Weeping Grass.

FLOWERS- Alyssum, Anemone, Banksia Rose, Begonia, Climbing Rose, Coleus, Columbine, Cornflower, Floss Flowers, Foxglove, Glossy Abelia, Impatiens, Larkspur, Lobelia, Nasturtium, Nemesia, Pansy, Petunia, Phiox, Rosemary, Snapdragon, Verbena, Viola, Bulbs (daffodil). AVOID-Asteraceae family of daisies including Chrysanthemum, Calendulas, Marigolds

CLIMBERS- Applyberry, Chilean Jasmine, Dusky Coral Pea, Ivy Leaf Geranium, Kiwi Fruit, Passionfruit, Star Jasmine, Trumpet Vine, Wonga Vine, Crimson Passionflower.

SHRUBS- Azalea, Banksia, Bottlebrush, California Lilac, Callistemon, Camellia, Cistus, Dog rose, Escallonia, Flax, Gardenia, Guinea Flower, Kunzea, Lavender, Leptopspermum, Melaleuca, Myrtle, Plumbago, Rosa Species, Rhododendron, Silky Tea Tree, Twiggy heath, Weigelia, Westringia, White Correa Yucca Salvia, Bracelet Honey Myrtle, Common White heath

TREES-Bay Laurel, Cabbage Palm, Lillypilly, Citrus species, Coastal Banksia, Orchid Tree, Flowering Crab Apple, Willow Myrtle Silky Oak, Male Gingko biloba, Old Man Banksia, Paperbark, Most Prunus species, Scribbly Gum, Tupelo, Silver Princess Gum, Peppermint Gum.

PLANTS TO AVOID- Clematis, Common Ivy, English Ivy, Some Grevilleas, Poinsettia, Polyanthus, Primrose, Primula, Rhus tree, Alder, Ash, Birch, Cypress, Elm, Hazel, Liquidambar, Maple, Mulberry, Olive, Orchid Tree, Privet, Walnut, White Cedar, Willow, She-Oak (Male only)

Remember that good control of your asthma and allergies at all times will lessen the impact of any exposures. The above is only indicative and you should check with your doctor that you are receiveing optimal preventative management for your hayfever.

For Australian natives:

• avoid high phosphorus fertilisers,
• be careful not to damage the main tap-root when initially planted,
• maintain good drainage and
• mulch regularly
• minimise water loss especially during hot weather

Plants should be checked for signs of pest and disease every fortnight during the establishment period and every three months after. Most plants suffer occasional damage from infestation or predation, and while some forms of damage are minimal and easily treated other may necessitate the removal of part or all of the affected plant.

The most common problems are caterpillars, scale, aphids, borers, thrip, leaf minor, wasp galls, root rot, rust, powdery mildew, damping off, slugs and snails

Pests can be separated into 2 main categories-borers and chewing grubs.

The most physically damaging predators are the borers which are the larvae of beetles or moths. They bore into the stems or branches of a wide range o trees and shrubs which can severely weaken the stem if the borer tunnels down the centre of the stem. A badly affected section will need to be cut off or the plant should be replaced.

Infestations usually occur during summer and autumn.

There are many sucking, chewing and infecting insects, depending on the type of predator; there are many commercially available products such as white oil that will treat a wide range of these. If found on a plant, a sample should be taken to a nursery for identification to ensure signs are evident, a sample of the plant and surrounding soil should be tested to determine if there is disease or non-visible signs of infestation.

Trimming is imply removing excess growth and re-shaping an already existing structure. Pruning promotes strong new growth and helps a healthy and well shaped plant with a good crop of fruit and/or flowers. During the establishment period the way a plant is pruned can have an important impact on it ultimate form.

The right time to prune depends on the type of plant and the severity of the winter climate. Hardy deciduous plants are usually best pruned in winter. Spring flowering plants should be pruned soon after flowering rather than in winter which would remove flower buds. The following applies:

• Spring flowering shrubs and trees-immediately after flowering
• Berry ornamentals- after berries finish
• Rhododendrons and azaleas- mid to late spring as flowering becomes less
• Conifers- as new growth is lush
• Hedges- several times per year when look untidy
• Birches, walnuts and maples- late autumn or early winter
• Deciduous fruit trees- June and July normally
• Australian natives- tip prune all year, avoid peak flowering times.

Pruning, trimming and thinning can also be undertaken in summer when the effects of the shaping can readily be seen.

The following are general methods of pruning that should be undertaken for shrubs and small trees:

Completely remove any diseased, week or damaged wood

Remove suckers and any overly vigorous shoots

Locate the healthy main branches formed during last season’s growth

Cut back to healthy outward facing bud

Access the results and adjust accordingly

The extent of pruning required depends on the type of plant and the desire form. Some plants such as Boronias and Croweas and many others will only require regular tip pruning to encourage a dense, compact habit. Other plants such as Callistemons and Grevilleas require considerable cutting back

Regular fertilising is essential for healthy vigorous plants. It is best to apply mulch beyond the plants perimeters to encourage the roots to grow outwards. This should generally be undertaken at the start of each growing season in spring.

Australian native plants in general prefer low phorous levels. Blood and bone is commonly used in powdered form to provide the required nitrogen level to plants, often deplted overtime.

Fertilisers can also be applied in granular form or soluble form. The fertiliser needs to get down deep into the soil profile where the roots are and should be well wateredin or make a number of holes about one metre apart over the entire spread of roots. The holes should be about 50mm diameter and at least 500mm deep. Divide the allowance of fertiliser accordingly with the number of holes and pour the calculated amount. Finish off by watering thoroughly.

Like most plants Turf gets its nutrients from the soil and once used up the turf may suffer some malnutrition. Generally a dressing of lawn food should be undertaken in both November and April using a fertiliser such as Grass Master No. 17 Lawn food.

Weeds compete with cultivated plants for nutrients, water, light and space. Weeds should be destroyed before they flower and disperse seeds which will lead to a greatly magnified problem. Weeds can be controlled in many ways. The most common methods are:

Hand removal or hoeing: if this method is employed the weeds toor system must be removed as the weed may re-grow.

Chemical control: Spraying weed killers can be classified into many different categories including pre-emergent, post-emergent, contact weed killers and systemic weed killers depending on the method and timing of the application.

Please use non-residual herbicide as they will not leave any harmful residue for other plants. If spraying nearby waterways, bioactive Roundup should be used as they are harmless to aquatic fauna.

” Landscape architecture is the design of outdoor and public spaces to achieve environmental, socio-behavioral, and/or aesthetic outcomes. It involves the systematic investigation of existing social, ecological, and geological conditions and processes in the landscape, and the design of interventions that will produce the desired outcome.”

In order to achieve a better outcome, I will definite landscape architecture in the context of private outdoor design purely because of the context of the business which focuses on servicing clients for their development application. Designing for the sake of getting the application over line seems quite limited, but offers opportunities to express and push for a sustainable approach to design.

Often residential clients ask for “Contemporary style” which is often backed with comments like “maintenance-free”, fact that persuade me to believe that they are very much illusioned by the projected image of design homes that sets the scene for practical but not really helping at creating a sense of place; a maintenance-free garden which often projects a visual minimalist image.

As a Landscape Architect, I would seldom suggest a Minimalist approach. Minimalist design as its name suggests provide the bare minimum. Identifying their personal needs and projecting that in the design and creating opportunities for the clients to appropriating the space is most critical to achieving something sustainable, something that they would take ownership of.

At the end of the day, the garden is one of place at home where you retreat. Garden of fresh air or garden of peace it is the one place where you would seek refuge from the everyday buzz.

DCP specific aim is to provide comprehensive guidelines for different types of development in addition to the provisions of the legal planning instrument (SEPP, REP or LEP).

DCPs are important in the planning system because they provide a flexible means of identifying additional development controls and standards for addressing development issues without the need for a formal statutory plan.

However sometimes council can be difficult to deal with when it comes to compliance. So here’s a tip if you want to put a pool in your backyard but you don’t have enough land space after providing the sufficient landscape percentage requirement. I have found that some Councils*:

At DA stage, do not include the pool in your DA plans, leave it as a grassed area and make sure that the area where you want to put your pool is free from stormwater pipes or underground Stormwater tanks.

Once your DA has been approved, proceed with building as per the plan. Once your plans are certified and issues to you, put in a complying development for the swimming pool and Voìla! Because the complying development does not require any landscape plan, the construction of the pool is independently dealt with

In case you have already consulted with your pool specialist and finalised the plan, here is also a solution for you:

The area of the pool can be deducted from the total area and hence giving you a smaller land area hence a smaller landscape area compliance.

* You should make sure that your Landscape Architect checks this fact with your Council